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Creating another Jordan 911.
Started 3/8/09 Updated 9/07/09
This model was commissioned by another Jordan fan in Ireland: Hilary Fitzpatrick

As all conversions done by me, under the banner of Mac's Motoracing Models, are "unique" so this will be slightly different to the last one.
Again I started this project using a Minichamps Jordan 191, 1:18 scale Michael Schumacher  "Donor" car. This one supplied by Hilary.

It was completely dismantled: Removing one front wheel helps in  the process, but is not absolutely necessary. Care must be taken when removing the seat, front wheel and steering assembly so as not to break any parts. (Click on the Thumbnails to enlarge the picture.)


As this is a Minichamps model, the decals can be removed very easily. Just lift the corner of the decal with a modeling knife and peal off with a pair of tweezers. Which is what I did for the large green ones on top of the side pods. In a case like this there is no need for care in removing them, so I  used a piece of tape for the others.
 


As you can see, some of the "Decals" are not decals and are painted on. These are easily removed with acetone (nail polish remover) dipped "Q-tips". I am doing a couple of extra things on this one so I decided to completely strip it by letting it sit in a container of Lacquer thinners with a paper towel draped over it, allowing the thinners to "wick" through the towel and completely cover the body with the thinners and fumes. It sat, with the lid on the container, for approx. 60 minutes. I then removed it and washed off the loose paint and removed the remainder with compressed air.

Some paint remained in the body lines, which I will scrape out. I can also see what work was done, originally, at the factory before the paint was applied. I will have to scribe parts of the body lines again as they have been almost buffed out in places. The front wing is going to receive some re-working as well.


From the bottom, you can see how, just the fumes of, the thinners removed most of the paint. What is left will not matter as it is out of site and will be painted over.





After looking at my reference pictures, the front wing needs to be reshaped. It has too much curve to it and the upper winglets are wrong.
I have marked the wing, where I want to change it, and here one side of the rear is done. That is just the lighting that makes it look like it is burned but it is not.





This is the rough work done. The front edge is squared off and angled more as it should be, not curved. For reference
I will also correct the bodywork at the side pods. It needs to be cut back behind the radiators and fill the recess. Note to anyone with the 191, the first three races the bodywork was like this, USGP, Brazil and San Marino.

I started by grinding the top edge off the bodywork on both sides   the recess will have to be filled. I will rough the inside of the recess with a Dremel bit and then cut through completely to the inside. I will then stick some "Scotch tape" on the outside and fill the gap with some resin, then sand it all to the correct shape.    Just a little clean up inside required, then the final re-shaping of the outside of the body. Then I will make templates for the carbon fiber decals.

The initial reshaping is completed rounded off the top edge and sanded each side. A nice coat of primer will fill the small marks so I will have a nice smooth finish to accept the semi-gloss black final undercoat.

After a few sessions of sanding, filling, sanding etc.   I screwed the body pieces back together so I could scribe the panel lines, so they will line up when finally assembled. I will pull it apart again for painting.

Next the front wing has a little more detail added to the upper elements. A little out of focus. I removed the metal element edges and replaced it with 0.010" thick plastic flat strip attached to the back edge with CA glue, then trimmed the height down slightly. I still have to put the front of the angle in place, but I will do that after it gets the base coat of black.
Final fill and sand before it gets the Black semi-gloss undercoat.

Update 8/30/09
It has been a little while, but I have done quite a bit since your last visit.

The parts have all been painted in preparation for the carbon decals.    
  The main body parts will be assembled prior to the application of the carbon decals, to ensure the correct "line-up".

It is always best to create your own templates for the carbon decals; I use regular "painters masking tape" that you can get at any hardware store, because it's flexible enough to stretch and peels off easily. I apply the tape to the section I want and then with a NEW model knife blade, cut the shape I want; peal it off and stick it on a sheet of plane white paper.
   I then mark the direction I want the weave of the carbon to flow. I do this for all sections, then I scan the sheet with all the templates on it.
    You will see I have also marked a "Scale" on the sheet. That is so I know I have the correct size, after it is scanned and saved into Microsoft word. I lay it out in the way the Carbon weave will flow, so I have an idea of how many sheets I will need.

The suspension "bumps" in the bodywork are too severe to really expect the carbon decals to follow the contour without tearing, so I cut a small piece of carbon decal in a diamond shape and split the bottom in the middle, from the middle of the decal. You can see it applied here aligning it perfectly is not really a concern as you will see later except to have it at approx. 45 degrees. Once those parts are done I apply decals in a different place all together. It will be 24 hours before I go back to the engine cover allowing time for the decal to set more permanently.
Here you see the decals applied to the tub section with the vertical flow of the carbon I had previously done the left side When applying the decal on the air-box, it important to know where the "bump" in the bodywork is and cut a slot in the decal prior to soaking it. While the decal is sitting in the water I give the part a coat of Micro Sol and then mix in some water with a brush, I find this a better solution than using Micro Set. It allows me to move the decal to the exact position I want, with less likelihood of accidental movement. You do have to be careful though not to damage other decals already in place. You can barely notice the split in the decal over the bump if you get it right. You would if you did not apply the small decal at 45 degrees.

It's Sunday now and I can apply the right side air-box decal The important part here is matching up the decal on the left side as well as the "bump" on the body. Once I have the decal where I want it I brush a coat of "Micro Sol" over it, to get it to adhere to the contours, before using the hair drier. I then use the hair drier for approx. 30 seconds. With a NEW knife blade in my modeling knife, a BIG magnifying glass, and the steadiest hands I can have, I start at the middle of the spine and very carefully, with a very low angle of cut, drag the knife blade to the end, then turn it around and do the same thing in the opposite direction. I then carefully remove the cut pieces with a pair of tweezers. Luckily the blade did not catch and I am happy with the result It's not easy to photograph, but that is what I call a good result. The green in the picture is just the reflection of the green background. In this picture you can clearly see the joint on the "bumps" as well.

With the Right side done, I moved back to the top of the left side-pod. I applied the decal in exactly the same manner. It is difficult to see the joint which is what you want. I know it's a little difficult to see in that picture but looking more closely you will see two seems/joints The one just to the right of the slot on the left and the second just to the left of the same slot.

The rear wing is almost completed, but I did not take any pictures of that, maybe for the next update.

Small Update 9/7/09
I have applied more carbon decals to the lower side of the side pods and to the nose area of the cockpit.
You can see the direction of the carbon is mirrored on each side of the damper pocket. Its beginning to look more like it should now   Front wing and nose next..

To view just the pictures click here